A little over a year ago, Shawn, the kids and several of our friends were on the Cape (Cape Cod, that is) for a wedding. One evening, we got takeout from a little place in Orleans, Massachusetts called Sir Crickets. We all ordered something different — fried clams, fried oysters (mmm!), clam chowder, fish and chips … there was just an array. We all shared a bit, which I love to do. It allows you to try so much more without going crazy. Total bliss.

The fried oysters — the first ones I’ve ever had — were amazing: tender, meaty and beautifully cooked. But as delicious as the fried oysters were, the standout dish was the New England clam chowder, which was ridiculously creamy, well-seasoned, a little smoky and loaded with clams and potatoes. It had taken some convincing to get me to try it, but when I did it totally reawakened a long dormant love of chowders in me.

Unfortunately, my friends and I skipped our annual fall trip to the Cape this past year, so I didn’t get to indulge in my favorites again. Maybe that’s why I have become a little obsessed with New England-style cooking. Why should it take a trip to the Cape for me to enjoy things like New England Clam Chowder?

This recipe for New England Clam Chowder comes from my family cookbook, which was created about 30 years ago with personal recipes from my grandmother, her sister and cousins. It also has journal entries from my great-great grandmother. The first time I saw the cookbook, I read through from cover to cover soaking in every word. It was almost like eavesdropping, but better. There’s such a special connection to my family’s past in that book.

New England Clam Chowder is a big thing here in the Northeast. Sold everywhere from grocery stores to fine restaurants, making a good chowder is no small feat. It should be creamy, but taste of the sea, and clams and have a meatiness to it. The potatoes give it a little more bulk. It should never be overwhelmed by the cream though. This recipe, which comes from a cousin (I think) named Peggy, is all of these things. It also has a very, very faint sweetness from the caramelized onions. But since it uses milk instead of heavy cream, it’s a little lighter. That means that the clam flavor shines through beautifully.

Make sure you use really good clams. I bought frozen ones from a local market that has a dedicated fish section. They came from Rhode Island. My clam juice was from Maine — both perfect for a true New England chowder.

It’s important to note that while this New England Clam Chowder is lighter than more traditional recipes, it’s still not exactly light. The base starts with a lot of diced salt pork, after all. But you can enjoy this one with a little less guilt — so that’s something, right?

On a side note, I have discovered that New England cooking really loves salt pork and cream. Just sayin’. Considering I plan to do more New England-style cooking, I wonder what that might mean for my waist? Eh, better not to worry …

Did the family like it? Yes! The kids, Shawn and I all really enjoyed this recipe. Shawn’s hoping for a slightly creamier version to hit our table soon, but I was really happy with this less creamy version. Try serving it with Fluffy Baking Powder Biscuits.

So, are you a chowder fan? What’s your favorite variety?

Lighter New England Clam Chowder, A Family Recipe
serves 8

1/4 lb salt pork, diced
1 red onion, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
6 large potatoes, diced
1 quart chopped clams (I use frozen fresh ones)
1 pint clam juice
1 quart low-fat milk
salt and pepper, to taste

Heat a large pot on the stove (I used my cast iron Dutch oven) over medium heat. Add the salt pork and cook for about 10 minutes until the fat renders and the bits are golden. Remove the salt pork bits from the pot and reserve for later.

Add the onions to the pot and stir well. Cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and lightly browned. Add the potatoes and stir well to combine.

Add the clams and clam juice. (You can just add the clams frozen, but it will add more time to the cooking time.) Stir well. Cook for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork tender.

While the clams are cooking, separate the fatty bits from the meaty bits of salt pork. Discard any fatty ones — they are tough and inedible. Stir the meaty salt pork bits back into the chowder.

Once the potatoes are tender, stir in the milk. Enjoy immediately.

This soup reheats well.

More from Sarah W. Caron of Sarah’s Cucina Bella…

• Game Day Brownie Bites on BettyCrocker.com
• Chocolate Raspberry Parfait on Tablespoon.com
• Top 10 Tips for Healthier Dinners on BettyCrocker.com (an oldie but goodie)
• Make Your Own Empanadas on Pillsbury.com

One of my favorite parts of belonging to a CSA program (that’s Community Supported Agriculture, or a farm share program where you prepay at the beginning of the season for a weekly basket of veggies and/fruit), is that I am challenged to cook with ingredients I might otherwise overlook in favor of mainstays like broccoli and green beans. Kale and even scallions fall into that category. But I am always happy with the results of cooking with them.

When our first CSA box arrived a few weeks ago, it was stuffed with greens and scallions. And as I struggled to decide on a cost-effect and easy dinner to make, I decided to skip the grocery store in favor of cooking from the basket and freezer. I always keep bags of raw shrimp in the freezer and it’s a cinch to defrost them under cool running water in the sink. It only takes about 10 minutes.

As far as easiness goes, well, I would be lying if I called this completely easy. The ingredients list for this Summer Pasta with Shrimp and Kale is a bit too long for that. It’s so worth it though. Fresh scallions, garlic, kale, white wine, a little butter. Just try it. The reality is that it really doesn’t take long to whip up. It’s just hands on. And a few more ingredients than easy.

When I made this, I expected there to be plenty of leftovers for lunch the next day. No such luck. Instead, the two teens joining us went back for heaping seconds. I am so not complaining though. I love feeding people, and having them take full-sized seconds portions is the most humongous compliment.

What’s your favorite summer food?

Summer Pasta with Shrimp and Kale
serves 6

2 tbsp olive oil
1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bunch kale, leaves separated and chopped (save stems for stock or discard)
1 lb large raw, pealed and deveined shrimp, rinsed
2/3 cup white wine
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper, to taste
1 tbsp butter
1 cup freshly grated Romano cheese
1 lb pasta (I use Campanelle), cooked and 1 ladle water reserved

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the scallions and garlic. Cook for 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened, lightly browning and shrinking in mass.

Add the shrimp and cook for 2-3 minutes until just turning pink and opaque. Stir.

Add the kale, wine and lemon juice. Stir well. Salt and pepper to taste. Let cook without disturbing for 5-7 minutes until the kale begins to wilt. Add the butter and one ladle of pasta water. Stir well. Cook until reduced, another 3-5 minutes.

Toss the pasta with the kale and shrimp mixture. Add the Romano and toss again.

Serve immediately.

At dinner the other night, I found myself talking about how I came to start developing recipes and writing about food. It seems like so long ago now, but I once was a in-the-thick-of-it news reporter, covering politics and crime. I was on a first name basis with court marshals because I saw them nearly every day, and I had local officials on speed dial. And back then, before I had children, I lived and breathed my work — and none of it phased me.

But then something happened. I became a mom. Suddenly, the subjects that I covered didn’t sit well with me anymore. Though I still loved my work, I couldn’t stomach the stories I worked on — ones where people were facing low-points in their lives. I’d changed, and my career had to change with me, so I didn’t return to the newspaper full time after that.

I don’t know what really led me to food writing, beyond a fleeting interest in it. Honestly, I thought I would leave the newspaper, parent full time and churn out a few novels. But after attending a writing conference, I decided to try food writing via a blog … if only for a little while to develop clips. It’s been nearly five and a half years.

It’s funny how that small change in my mindset led me to where I am now. I’m happy writing about food, happy trying new recipes — even when they don’t work out every time, happy being someone who can type up this blog post on a shrimp and pasta recipe and have someone be reading it moments later. Everything changed, and I am glad for it.

This delicious pasta was a Saturday afternoon creation. We’d shivered our way through a freezing, windy soccer practice and returned home to veg. All thoughts of errand running were discarded in favor of an afternoon movie, and some comfy blankets. So, lunch? It needed to be hot, fast and comforting. This Shrimp, Basil and Tomato Pasta with Manchego Cheese is all that.

I’ve used basil and garlic with shrimp in a pasta before (see: Creamy Gorgonzola and Shrimp Pasta) and tomatoes, basil and shrimp are a natural fit (see: Fresh Tomato Basil Pasta with Romano Roasted Shrimp). But changing up the ingredients just a bit can lead to a whole new shrimp pasta dish. This one is different from all previous dishes thanks to the addition of Manchego cheese, an aged Spanish cheese that  is buttery with a mild and pleasant flavor. It’s made from Sheep’s milk.

So, this pasta has a touch of creaminess with the familiar flavors of tomato, basil and garlic. And then there is the shrimp, which soaks up a bit of it all. Delish.

Shrimp, Basil and Tomato Pasta with Manchego Cheese
serves 4

1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 lb jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil
1 pint grape tomatoes
1/2 lb pasta of your choice, cooked according to package directions
1/2 cup grated Manchego cheese

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and toss. Cook for 1 minute, stirring once.

Add the shrimp and stir well. Cook for 1-2 minutes, until it’s just starting to turn pink. Add the basil and tomatoes and stir well.

Cover the skillet and cook for 5-7 minutes, until the shrimp is cooked through and the tomatoes have burst (press down on any stragglers to help them along. Cook for 1 minute, uncovered.

Toss the shrimp mixture with the pasta. Stir in the Manchego cheese a little at a time.

Serve immediately with a good finishing salt like black sea salt or Himalayan pink salt.

When it comes to citrus, lime is my clear favorite. Yes, I like orange juice and the occasional grapefruit. And yes, lemon is perfect for some dishes. But I save my lovin’ for the lime.

Limeaid, lime in guacamole, Lime White Chocolate Cookies — I love it all. So, lime in a dressing? Naturally, when the idea popped into my head, I was all over it. Lime, olive oil, cumin, paprika … oh yea! And what could be better to toss it with than a fabulous black bean salad?

My mouth was watering thinking about it. Oh wait, it still is.

The tart lime, creamy avocado, sweet red peppers and meaty black beans go perfectly together. The shrimp finish off the salad so nicely, giving it substance.

I served this over Boston bibb lettuce leaves, but you could plate it over baby greens, rice or without any base. It’s all up to you on that one.

Another great thing about this salad? It’s ready in about 15 minutes. I pan-fried these extra-large shrimp, but any cooked shrimp will do — and if you use precooked shrimp, it’s even faster to whip up (maybe 10 minutes?). Perfect for a speedy lunch on a busy day.

What’s your favorite fast lunch?

The kids and I love shrimp, but I think I’ve told you that before. I also think I’ve already told you about how they cheer when they see that I am making a shrimp dish. Clearly, we like ‘em. And lately, we’ve been eating a lot of shrimp. I buy frozen raw shrimp and defrost it under running cold water (takes about 10 minutes) and then peel. I usually remove the tails, if the kids will be eating with me, since it’s easier for them not to have them on. But you can totally enjoy them with the tails on too.

This particular shrimp dish cooks fast on the stovetop with a bit of olive oil, garlic and parsley. It’s infused with flavor and finished off with just a bit of salt. The shrimp are flavorful, but not overwhelming — perfect for eating with crusty bread and a crisp green salad. I highly suggest that you use the bread to sop up some of the juices from these. It’s that good.

Sauteed Garlic Shrimp
serves 4

2 tbsp olive oil
1 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp fresh finely minced parsley
salt
dash of crushed red pepper
1 lb raw shrimp, peeled

Heat the olive oil in a 10″ skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for 1 minute. Add the shrimp to the skillet and toss to combine. Cover, and cook until the shrimp are opaque (4-5 minutes). Uncover and cook for an additional 1-2 minutes. Serve.

Choice is so important. We all make choices every day: shopping the farmers market or not, shopping at big supermarkets or small local markets, cooking at home or eating out, trying something new or sticking with something you know you’ll love and enjoy. When it comes to food, everything is a choice.

I used to fall into the category of people who would nibble, nibble, nibble at whatever I could find when I was hungry — even if it wasn’t what I really wanted. Sometimes lunch would just be a series of nibbles. That was a choice, albeit a bad one. Now, I make the choice not to eat unless I really want what I am eating. That way, I don’t overeat simply because I can’t find what I want.

Likewise, when it comes to shopping for food, I choose to shop where I like. For instance, two local grocery stores are filled with happy, helpful workers … I love shopping there. And the local farmers’ markets have enthusiastic farmers who are happy to chat about their produce and products. It’s a joy to go there …

But recently, I stopped at a big mega-supermarket for a few dinner supplies and I was faced with the opposite: grumpy, eye-rolling, rude workers who acted like my request for a pound of large, raw shrimp was out of line. It was such an unpleasant experience that I probably will never go back there (really, I need to find a small fish monger to shop from. Anyone know of one in the Greater New Haven area?). That’s my choice.

In any case, despite the sour fish counter worker, this pasta was fantastic. I adapted it from my recipe for Shrimp in White Wine and Garlic Sauce, adding gorgonzola to make a lovely, creamy sauced pasta. The gorgonzola melts into the delicate sauce and coats the pasta with flavorful goodness. Honestly, I could have licked the bowl. Paige, who runs hot and cold with shrimp, kept asking for more and more.

Serve this with a big chopped herb salad and some fresh fruit for dessert. Delish!

Tell me about where you shop! Does the attitude of the workers impact your choices?
Creamy Gorgonzola and Shrimp Pasta
serves 4

1/2 tbsp butter
1/2 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 lb raw large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup white wine
salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup basil leaves, roughly chopped
1/2 cup crumbled gorgonzola cheese
1/2 lb penne, cooked according to package directions

In a large skillet, combine the butter and olive oil. Heat on medium, until the butter is melted, occasionally swirling the pan to combine.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes until softened (do not let it brown!).

Add the shrimp to the pan and stir to coat. Cook, flipping the shrimp, until just barely pink on both sides.

Pour in the white wine and season with salt and pepper. Stir well. Bring the mixture to a boil, then add the basil. Cook for 10 minutes.

Sprinkle the gorgonzola evenly over the pan. Stir to combine. Then, add the cooked pasta and toss to coat.

Serve immediately.

Whenever I interview a food personality, I try to slip in a question about their go-to items in their pantry and fridge. It’s always so interesting to hear what people say. Of course, it’s only fair that I answer the question myself too.

Here goes … In my freezer, there are a few things you will always find: shrimp (both cooked and uncooked ones!), super sweet corn, peas, ground beef, gzoya and … salmon. I buy frozen wild-caught filets whenever they go on sale. One grocery store here sells them individually wrapped and sealed, which makes them ultra-easy to grab and defrost for a meal, whether it’s a lunch for one or a dinner for four.

That was exactly what I did tonight for dinner. Grilled Pesto-Topped Salmon is as easy as it comes. With just two ingredients, it comes together and cooks in no time. Plus, the flavorful pesto makes for a fabulous filet.

Serve this with a green salad and pasta.

Grilled Pesto-Topped Salmon
serves 4

1 lb salmon filets
1/4 cup pesto

Prepare your grill for grilling. If using gas, preheat the grill to its medium setting.

Place the salmon filets on the grill and cook for about 5 minutes on the first side. Flip and divide the pesto evenly among the filets, spreading to coat. Cook for an additional 5-7 minutes, until cooked through. It should flake easily with a fork.

Serve.

It’s been nearly a decade since I last ate canned tuna (and that was once … the time before that? About five years prior). I don’t eat it. I don’t like it. Usually the smell grosses me out, and honestly I would rather have fresh. But when I recently told you about the Salmon Cakes that my kids and I adore, I discovered that canned fish does have its (awesome) uses. In well-seasoned patties, it’s great.

Ever since those Salmon Cakes, I have been considering being a little more open-minded about seafood in cans. It’s inexpensive, it’s accessible and if I can create something that the kids and I like? Then that’s another serving of fish for us each week. Gotta love those Omega-3s.

So, these Tuna Cakes? Well, I wouldn’t be telling you about them if I didn’t love them. They have a strong rosemary flavor, with a wonderful meaty texture. I ate mine on a slice of French bread (open-face sandwich style). Delish! They would also be great served on a bed of salad greens.

As for my kids? They both ate every last bite without complaint.

Just try ‘em.

]]> http://sarahscucinabella.com/2010/05/19/tuna-cakes-recipe/feed/ 3 http://sarahscucinabella.com/2010/01/06/easy-green-salad-with-roasted-salmon-recipe/ http://sarahscucinabella.com/2010/01/06/easy-green-salad-with-roasted-salmon-recipe/#comments Wed, 06 Jan 2010 13:15:58 +0000 sarah http://sarahscucinabella.com/?p=2188

What do you eat for lunch? People always talk about how important it is to have a good breakfast, but it’s also really important to have a good lunch — one that is filling, satisfying and healthy. For me, lunch is sometimes a sandwich or pasta, but more often it’s a salad. Salads served topped with warm proteins, like this salmon, are comforting, waist-friendly and can be really easy to make. Seriously. I mean it.

This particular roasted salmon is so ridiculously easy that I almost feel bad calling it a recipe. You basically toss salmon in a pan, drizzle just a bit of olive oil, sprinkle some salt and pepper and lay some thyme across the top. Toss it in the oven and 20 minutes or so later, you are ready to sit down and eat a healthy lunch. Easy peasy.

But I am sharing it because some people don’t realize just how easy and simple it can be to cook fish — or how unscary it is. (Yes, I really did just make up that word. Shh!)

I used to be scared to cook salmon. I also used to be scared to feed it to my two-year-old daughter. Earlier this week, while I was writing about salmon for my Tablespoon column, I reminisced about a year ago when I was so freaked out to give Paige fish that I couldn’t bring myself to do it. She was just over a year old, and it was time to try. But the threat of fish allergies (the ones I read about in some parenting magazine) had me downright terrified. It’s funny how in this information age, too much information can make us question our instincts.

I turned to mom friends and asked advice. I read more about it. Then I finally bit the bullet and just made fish. She loved it. No more fear necessary.

These days, we typically have fish about twice a week. Since Shawn isn’t a fan, we either have it when he’s working late (henceforth known as “fish night” in our house) or for lunch. It used to horrify my mother that I actually cook at lunchtime, but that’s one of the perks of being a work-at-home freelance writer. And really, why shouldn’t you cook when you have a chance?

Frankly though, when the fabulous lunch is as easy as this one, it needs no justifying.

So, spill! What’s your favorite lunch? Do you ever cook at lunchtime?

Easy Green Salad with Roasted Salmon Recipe
serves 4

8 cups torn and rinsed lettuce (Boston is my fav)
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
4 oz crumbled goat cheese or feta, divided
1 recipe roasted salmon (below)
vinaigrette

Divide the lettuce between four plates or bowls. Top each one with 1/4 of the carrot shreds, 1 oz of crumbled goat cheese or feta and 1 salmon fillet. Drizzle with vinaigrette.

Serve immediately.

Roasted Salmon Recipe
serves 4
Click here for my printable recipe at Tablespoon

1 lb salmon fillets (roughly 4-4oz pieces)
1/2 tbsp olive oil
4 sprigs fresh thyme
sea salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray an oven-safe pan with cooking oil.

Rinse the salmon in cool water and pat dry. Place, skin side down, into the prepared pan. Drizzle with olive oil and then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay a sprig of thyme over each piece.

Bake the salmon for 15-20 minutes, until it flakes easily with a fork.

Serve warm.

A few weeks ago, I started thinking of fall flavors (seriously, when did seasons become flavors to me?). Apples, pumpkins, squash, Brussels sprouts … I started to scheme about how I could use them to create new dishes.

The first thing that came to mind: Apple Cider Vinaigrette.

Not a dressing that just uses apple cider vinegar, though: One that uses actual apple cider to create a sweet, tangy lettuce-coating dressing. Something that could bridge the light foods of summer with the bone-warming foods of winter. Could cider in a dressing even work?

I’ve been working on this recipe ever since, trying to get it just right. And guess what? I did. It’s earthy and lightly sweet, with that tinge of tang I wanted. Even Shawn, who isn’t a vinaigrette fan at all, liked it a lot.

As for the salad above? It’s romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size bits with half a Haas avocado sliced, about eight medium shrimp that were just steamed, two slices of pancetta fried until crisp and about an ounce of Danish blue cheese. Yum.

Next time though, I would choose a lettuce with a less aggressive taste like a Boston Bibb. I think that would make this salad — and dressing — absolutely perfect.

P.S. The cute bottle? It’s a glass flask from The Container Store. I bought it on a recent trip into New York and absolutely love it for dressings like this. It stores in the fridge well and is absolutely airtight. I use a small funnel to help ease the dressing in without spilling. Both are awesome to have in your cupboard if you love to make your own dressing.

Apple Cider Vinaigrette

1/3 cup apple cider
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1/4 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp pepper
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/2 cup olive oil

Whisk all of the ingredients together. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to one week.